Green is the New Black - Propaganda through Aesthetics with Reid Trussler
Nature has served as inspiration for fashion designers and, by extension, pieces, since the beginning of time. The world around us has been used to design the first ritual dresses, masks, and jewelry, as well as shaping the 2024 Met Gala theme: A Garden in Time. Although we owe much of our fashion inspiration to nature, do the behind the scenes of the fashion industry also show admiration for Mother Earth? Or, are we doomed to reap what we sow? This is a necessary deep dive considering the current rise of the “green” aesthetic which has incorporated farmlife, nature, and occasionally traditional values such as growing your own produce and raising animals. I mean, how many fashion influencers do you follow who also promote their “mini farm” and organic lifestyle? I think it is both interesting and concerning that this “trend” is reaching the mainstream in tandem with an administrative attack on sustainable practices, increasingly relaxed policies addressing the carbon footprint of fast fashion companies, and growing lenience with human rights protection.
Recently, my friend Luella Hood and I had an interesting conversation about the change in the “Cool Girl” aesthetic. In the early 2000’s and possibly until 2020, the fashion industry in the U.S. continued to exist in what I am going to refer to as the “King Kylie Era,” honestly because when I was ten this was my inspiration… Until around five years ago the fashion industry played into this aesthetic: big sunglasses, CAKED makeup (which will never die for me), stacked gold jewelry and mini skirts. And of course, my favorite, everything studded. But, in 2025, it seems that the “cool girl” aesthetic is, well, “granola.” Fashion influencers post themselves on hikes and running marathons. They are sponsored by brands who sell knit beanies and flowy maxi skirts. A recent example, which shook me to my core, is Bella Hadid’s Frankies Bikinis campaign. She has on gingham bathing suits and is photographed in a farm, a field, and with many, many chickens. It seems strange that a supermodel known for her high fashion work and, previously, her party girl lifestyle would be chosen for the aesthetic of this campaign. But, maybe it's not that out there. Embracing nature and making more natural fashion choices, as well as being more modest, is seen across the fashion industry. I feel as though it is not a coincidence that we see a shift in fashion towards modest and natural aesthetics. We also see a growing appreciation for the environment, though many of the same companies feeding into this trend are celebrating the repeal of policies which force them to respect and protect Mother Earth. So is this wave of gingham and chickens a fashion trend or is it propaganda? Is it possible that we should be viewing this change through a skeptical lens?
A conversation has long existed about the role of fashion in promoting environmental projects, as well as companies working to address the environmental impact they have on the earth. Top models, such as Naomi Campbell, have actively used their platforms to raise awareness about environmental issues and integrate nature-inspired fashion into their careers. Is it legit? The line between fashion as activism and marketing is blurred as the fashion industry still remains one of the most polluting industries in the world. I interviewed my brilliant friend Reid Trussler, a Computer Science and Environmental Economics & Policy major at Berkeley, to get some better insight on what this means.
“Fashion, like any art form or creative medium, ultimately serves as a mechanism for expression. For those who are passionate about social change, fashion can and has historically been a wonderful outlet. That being said, the intersection of environmental activism and the fashion industry is super interesting as there are, in my opinion, inherent contradictions between the two. A foundational element of environmental activism/protection is sustainable resource consumption— is consumption of resources warranted for the purpose of promoting environmental activism? I don’t really have an answer to that. I think there is value in supporting environmentally conscious fashion (I love a good reformation haul), but buying a shirt made from regeneratively grown cotton is not better for the earth than buying no shirt at all. So, I guess my general opinion is that it is important to consider whether the ends justify the means when promoting environmental activism via fashion.”
“I am definitely not qualified to speculate about or comment on fashion trends, but if I had to guess, I would say that the rise of nature-inspired fashion is probably a result of both real concern and trends. Wishful thinking perhaps, but I would hope there’s at least some degree of real concern! That being said, there is no force with greater power to bring a social movement from 0 to 100 than the media. While a nature inspired fashion design might originate out of real environmental concern, it will only take one viral TikTok for that design to become ubiquitous. Are the people consuming that design doing so because they resonate with the concern, or because they just like it? Maybe both? Intentionally or not, they are promoting environmental activism to some extent, so it’s a win in my book.”
Reid offers a much more hopeful and positive outlook on the trend which combines the greenwashing we have seen occurring over the last few years, as well as new attention towards traditional and homestead-like fashion and lifestyle choices. She believes, in a sense ,“No publicity is bad publicity.” But it is important to take into account the role of propaganda, which can be distributed through fashion. As the current administration moves further away from sustainability and strips away existing restrictions on the fashion industry, it is important to consider the illusion these trends may be promoting. On the other hand, as Reid emphasizes, we must not give up on fashion's power in influencing environmental activism. If the mission is authentic, the impact is exponential.
