Dark Academia
Getting through life as a college student is difficult. Academic stress, sleep deprivation, social uncertainty, and existential dread are constantly gnawing at our backs, ready to take over at any minute. But what if you made it an aesthetic?
Imagine: late nights spent writing essays on history and literature, cold wind brushing up against your back as you walk to the local cafe, gothic buildings surrounded by misty forest, and underground cults. Romantic poetry, sweeping arches, burgundy leaves, Oscar Wilde. Decadent lives and a thirst for learning— this is dark academia.
The History of Dark Academia
Dark academia is a subculture that romanticizes higher education and an eternal thirst for knowledge. Closely related to Classical literature, the liberal arts, and upper-class, 19th century European culture, dark academia has retained a steady online presence since its resurgence in 2010’s.
This aesthetic is not new, however, and its roots lie as far back as the 18th century. The opulent, elegant lives and times of Romantic poets such as Lord Byron, Percy Shelley, and Mary Shelley, combined with the brooding and intellectual themes of their writing, inspired the tenets on which dark academia was founded.
The modern subculture arose with Donna Tarte’s novel The Secret History, published in 1992. The book tells the story of a group of college students studying Classics at a private college in New England. However, all is not as it seems, and the book quickly descends into esoteric practices, hedonism, and murder. In Tarte’s own words, The Secret History was inspired by “baroque wickedness, the malignant glamour, the corruption so profound as to be exactly what is meant by the word decadence”.
Like nearly every subculture of the modern era, dark academia could not have been developed without the help of tumblr. A Secret History fan base was heavily active on the site, reblogging collages of dark libraries, Greek sculptures, and preppy, New England-inspired outfits. Other fandoms joined in the creation of this aesthetic, including followers of the Harry Potter series and Dead Poets Society. Moodboards of vintage, ivy league-inspired fashion became more and more popular, and in 2015, the #darkacademia tag first appeared on the site.
There is room to criticize this aesthetic, of course. It is intrinsically tied to European culture, and most “dark academia” aesthetic images portray people with pale skin. Additionally, the subculture arguably celebrates unhealthy actions such as sleep deprivation and hedonistic activities. However, there is nothing in the clothing itself that should stop people of all backgrounds and ethnicities from using this style as inspiration for their daily outfits, and in the future, I hope to see more diversity within the dark academia aesthetic.
Dark Academia Staples
The most important element of dark academia fashion is the color palette. As is implied in the name, dark colors are most commonly used, including forest greens, deep browns, navy blues, wine reds, and blacks. Lighter colors can be utilized as well; creams, gold, and mustard yellow are often used in combination with the darker shades.
Turtlenecks, cardigans, coats, and blazers are the most common tops, and cigarette pants, plaid skirts, and trousers are the most common bottoms, oftentimes paired with oxfords or mary janes. Houndstooth and tweed are popular patterns, and accessories such as vintage watches, round glasses, and knee-high socks round off the look.
When shopping for dark academia fashion on a budget, thrift shops should always be your first stop, as there is often a large supply of secondhand sweaters, jackets, and button-up tops. Brands that carry basic dark academia pieces include Aritzia, JING, Urban Outfitters, and Oak + Fort. While many of these can be on the pricier side, they are worth checking out the next time you need to invest in a high-quality sweater or coat.
I could not write an article about dark academia without talking about the website that carries half of the aesthetic on its back: Etsy. A quick search for “dark academia” brings up 8,701 results, providing a great opportunity to both find unique pieces and support small businesses.
Now set forth, dark academics, armed with the wardrobe necessary to properly romanticize your college experience. Don’t forget your favorite book, and try not to murder any classmates.
Words by Lauren von Aspen
Photos by Anna Chang